Nintendo Switch Joy-Con D-Pad Shell Swap: UV Printed Guide
By Hand Held Legend | Published: 2026-10-16
Category: How-to Guides
Swap your Switch Joy-Con shell for a UV printed D-pad version without losing rumble. Step-by-step process, checkpoints, and the haptic actuator you may need.
Quick answer
If you want a D-pad on your left Joy-Con, the cleanest path is swapping to a shell designed with a D-pad cutout instead of the stock four-button layout. Use a UV printed Joy-Con shell like the Nintendo Switch D-Pad Version Joy-Con Shells, move your original buttons and sticks over, and keep your rumble motors if they still work. Plan on about an hour, a tri-wing driver, and a plastic pry tool.
What changes when you move to a D-pad shell
A D-pad shell replaces the four separate directional buttons with a single cross-shaped pad, which feels more natural for 2D games, fighting games, and retro titles. The shell itself is just the plastic housing; your original Switch motherboard, battery, and rails transfer over. Because the cutout is different, the stock directional button caps will not fit in a D-pad shell, so make sure the shell you buy is sold as a D-pad version rather than a standard four-button replacement.
Tools and parts to gather before you open anything
You need a Y00 tri-wing screwdriver for the four external Joy-Con screws, a small Phillips #000 for the internal screws, and a plastic pry tool or guitar pick for the shell seams. A pair of tweezers helps with the ribbon cables. If your rumble motors are weak or buzzing, this is the moment to replace them, since you will already have the shell open. Keep a shallow dish for screws; the internal screws are tiny and easy to lose.
How to avoid damaging the ribbon cables
The Joy-Con has several thin ribbon cables, and they tear if you pull them straight out. Always lift the small black or white latch on the connector before sliding the cable free. Work slowly around the battery and the rail, and never force the shell halves apart; if they resist, a screw or a latch is still holding them. This is the step where most first-time swaps go wrong.
Step-by-step Joy-Con D-pad shell swap
- Power down and remove the Joy-Con: Turn the Switch fully off, slide the Joy-Con off the rail, and set the console aside. Work on a clean, well-lit surface with a mat or tray to catch screws. Checkpoint: the console should be completely off, not in sleep mode.
- Remove the four tri-wing screws: Use a Y00 tri-wing driver on the four screws on the back of the Joy-Con. Keep them in your dish; they are specific to the Joy-Con and easy to mix up with other small screws. Common mistake: using a Phillips driver and stripping the tri-wing heads.
- Open the shell and release the battery connector: Pry the seam gently with a plastic tool, then lift the battery connector straight up before touching anything else. This prevents shorting the board while you work. Checkpoint: the battery cable is fully disconnected before you continue.
- Disconnect the ribbon cables and lift out the internals: Flip up each connector latch, slide the ribbon cables free, and lift the motherboard, battery, and rail out as a unit. Keep the buttons and sticks with their matching side so they go back in the same orientation. Common mistake: pulling a ribbon cable without opening its latch, which tears the cable.
- Transfer the buttons, sticks, and rumble motors into the new shell: Seat the D-pad, face buttons, and stick into the UV printed shell first, then set the rumble motors into their slots. If you are replacing the rumble, install the Haptic Actuator Set now while the shell is open. Checkpoint: the D-pad moves freely and does not rub the shell edge.
- Reconnect the ribbons and close the shell: Slide each ribbon cable back into its connector, press the latch down, and reconnect the battery last. Align the shell halves, press them together evenly, and reinstall the four tri-wing screws. Common mistake: trapping a ribbon cable between the shell halves, which causes button or rumble failure.
- Test before you reassemble fully: Attach the Joy-Con to the Switch and test every direction on the D-pad, the face buttons, the stick, and rumble. If something does not respond, open the shell and reseat the ribbon cable before tightening everything down. Next step: once everything works, repeat the process on the other Joy-Con if you bought a pair of shells.
Parts that fit this project
- Nintendo Switch D-Pad Version Joy-Con Shells - UV Printed - Clearance: Nintendo Switch D-Pad Version Joy-Con Shells - UV Printed - Clearance are custom designed with a D-pad cutout instead of the traditional 4-button directional style, and are sold as a set of shells only. You get the D-pad feel without buying a separate button kit, but you must reuse your existing buttons, sticks, and rails.
- Nintendo Switch D-Pad Version Joy-Con Shells - UV Printed - Clearance: These shells are compatible with the original Switch model and OLED model, and all clearance items are final sale and cannot be returned, exchanged, or refunded. Confirm your model and color before ordering, because a clearance shell cannot be sent back if you change your mind.
- Haptic Actuator Set - HD Rumble - Pro Controller - GC Ultimate - Joycons: Haptic Actuator Set - HD Rumble is compatible with Joycons, Pro Controller, ProGCC, and GC Ultimate, and includes 2x rumble motors with soldering required for Pro Controller. If your current rumble motors are failing, replace them during the swap so you do not have to reopen the shell later.

